| but I figure since we're all Z enthusiasts and lovers, why the hell not. For those of you know who know me (and those that don't), you know that I have been undergoing my build for the past 7 years; since my old motor blew on my birthday back in 2008. In the past 7 years I took my Z from a stock turbo/injector full bolt-on +cams Z to a fully built twin GT3071R car. Through the course of the build I had numerous numerous setbacks, including being scammed out of a set of heads, head gaskets, lower plenum, plus about $2000 cash from a guy who was going to do all my port/polish and valve train work (at the time he worked for a reputable shop but apparently got into drugs, got himself fired, and still claimed that he could do the work, then split with all my parts and money). On top of that, the shop that was supposed to do my manual steering rack install (needed custom steering shaft, heim joints, and internal threaded sleeves) decided to take about 6 months to do the install, and I still needed to do some more work on it when I decided to pull the car out of the shop. Even through these setbacks, I managed to stay pretty motivated and kept on moving with the build. I had the motor itself finished pretty quick and started stock piling parts to slap it all back together with. On 8/12/2010, she got started up and taken out for her first little spin. I had my tuner with me and we we're just doing a little drive to get a base map put together to get the car on the dyno. All was going great until my positive battery cable worked itself out of its bracket (didn't fully tighten after battery relocation to the hatch) and decided that it wanted to rest on my testpipe and short out. So a short tow back to the house and back to the drawing board. I repaired/replaced the battery cable, made sure it was properly tucked up out of the way, replaced the main battery fuseable link, and took her back out for a quick spin. When I got back from the 3 mile trip I Noticed the unmistakable smell of burning oil coming from under the hood. A quick check showed that one of my cam seals decided it wasn't fully seated and wanted to paint my timing covers with oil, bringing on the next phase of terror. A quick plenum/timing belt pull and I was back in service...for about 4 miles. While driving, everything started out great then progressively turned to shit. The car started breaking up slightly under normal driving conditions. I aimed towards home, and as I got closer, the car started breaking up progressively worse and worse. I managed to limp it home and shut it off, then could not get it started back up again. Up goes the hood...again. I tracked down what I thought was the problem - 2 grounds missed when I put the plenum back on which ultimately fried the PTU. Hooked them back up, tossed a new PTU in, and no dice. Crank but no start...not even a sputter. So where do I go from here? Time to pull the wiring harness completely out and make a custom harness that only has connectors for what I need. This wiring harness went through about 5 stages before finally geting it right. Through trial and error I quickly found out then when lopping connectors off the stock harness, the stock fuse box does not play well with what's left. So I ended up finalizing the harness with built in ECU, EFI, and Injector relays. I'm happy to say that 5 years after the first start, and almost 8 years after the beginning, she is running again and actually runs solid and consistent. There are still some small things I need to do to button the car up, but they are all non-vital to running (other than a 4 wheel alignment and some more street tuning for boost!), and I am planning on having the car dyno tuned by John Kerr (Harrisburg, PA...his brother is Luke who used to have a front mounted twin 2871 setup, and was tuned by John making a touch over 630whp at 22psi on 93 pump gas...). Anyways, I know it was an extremely long read..so thanks for those who hung in there. I'm pretty sure I have a thread somewhere on here from way back when with all the progress pics.parts list, so I'm just going to go ahead and post up the most recent pics and a couple little videos. If you guys want progress pics in here, ask and ye shall receive. I know it's not your typical "tt.net" car but oh well...
 Walk around video Small driving video with a taste of boost
and while I'm here...the mods list from the build:
Engine/Heads:
-Eagle rods
-Wesico 88mm pistons
-Tig welded crank counter weight, balanced to 10krpms
-Ported oil pump
-Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper
-ATI race damper
-ARP head and main studs
-BDE low profile motor mounts
-Z1 58mm throttle bodies
-Gasket/port matched upper/lower manifolds
-Supertech .5mm OS inconel exhaust valves
-Supertech .5mm OS black nitride coated intake valves
-Supertech Dual valve springs
-Supertech Ti valve retainers
-Supertech Ti valve seats
-Manley Ti valve collets
-Bronze exhaust valve guides
-Major port work, bowl/chamber work with flush ground spark plug bosses
-5 angle intake valve job
-Radiused exhaust valve job
-JWT R5 cams
-JUN adjustable intake cam gears
-Power Enterprise kevlar timing belt Fuel:
-Dual stock TT pumps
-Dual 8an nylon braided lines from the bulkhead to a Y junction, then a single -10 line to the rail.
-Two summit inline fuel filters 40 micron
-Magnafuel FPR
-BDE top feed fuel rails
-RC 1000cc injectors Turbo/exhaust:
-Twin Garrett GT3071R-WG turbo's .64A/R with 2.75" inlet housing
-ATP 16lb wastegate actuators
-Z1 SS oil feed lines with restrictors
-Z1 GT series oil return lines
-Bell Intercoolers custom made FMIC, Vertical core 4.5"thick x 6" tall x 24.2" long. (rated at over 1200hp)
-AMS exhaust manifolds (yes I know...I have a set of Ash manifolds to replace...will be doing a before/after dyno)
-AMS 3" expansion downpipes (will be replacing with custom bellmouth DP's)
-AMS 3" to 2.5" resonated test pipes (again will be replacing with custom 3" straight pipes)
-Custom removable turn downs with second set of resonators. Terminates at the front of the rear subframe. Drivetrain:
-HKS triple disc clutch
-Z1 one piece driveshaft Cooling:
-Mishimotor radiator
-CX racing 19 row oil cooler Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
-SPL coil overs
-Adjustable front and rear upper control arms
-Adjustable front tension rods
-Hicas elimination bar
-Solid subframe bushings
-Solid trans mount
-Wilwood 13" 6 piston BBK
-Custom manual steering rack using a modified Flaming River Omni-rack Electronics:
-Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 EMS
-Dual AEM UEGO widebands fed into the haltech as primary O2's There is more to the list than that, this is just all I can remember off the top of my head. Hoping to have an alignment done next week and get some street tuning for boost done and a nice fall photoshoot.
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Well I don't normally post here...(and it's a long one...) - 
